December 19, 2005 - Sucking Wind

I knew I would get out of shape on this trip. I even convinced myself that it would be good to take a month off from climbing to let the right shoulder heal and to get rid of a few bad engrams. I didn’t figure my lungs would shrink to the size of kidney beans.

I started the day extremely excited for the day’s events. I have seen photos of the Taktsang Monastery, a.k.a. Tiger’s Nest, and wanted to see it badly. Sure, it would be almost 2000 feet of vertical gain on the hike but how bad could it be?

On the way, however, I encountered something just as impressive. A group of young adults were carrying bricks. They were not using wheelbarrows or carts. They were putting bricks into baskets strapped to their backs. One teenager had bricks strapped directly to his back. They were carrying their loads up the trail to build a prayer wheel. No one was directing them…just their faith. One boy had dropped several of his bricks so we each grabbed a few to help out. I picked up five bricks and after a few hundred yards, I was done (and the bricks were done with me). I turned around and saw the same boy with a dozen or more bricks in his basket, and he was still carrying a smile.


The hike to the first overlook was a haul but the views from each switchback were overwhelming beautiful. I welcomed the tea break at the overlook. It was a few moments’ rest the quads and then we were off and running. We’ll, not really running.

When we reached the monastery, I had lost the feeling in my legs which was probably a good thing since they would have caused me a great deal of pain otherwise. I left my camera with the guard at the gate. We had special permission to enter the monastery but no photos would be allowed inside. I felt rather light putting my gear down after having carried it up the mountain.

According to folklore, the Tiger’s Nest was built by fairies in the 8th century. In the absence of fairies, they it must have been built by people. In either case, this architectural wonder perched on a rock ledge thousands of feet above the valley floor was beyond belief. I’m grateful for the rare opportunity to enter this place to which all people of Bhutan make a pilgrimage during their life.

We returned for lunch at the first overlook. Knowing that I would have very few opportunities to have a good Bhutanese meal in the coming months, I gorged myself. I barely made it down without exploding.

When we reached the trailhead, we were met by a family who had journeyed for 9 days from high up in the mountains to reach the same point. They make this journey every year to escape the hostile weather of the mountains. What first caught my eye was the incredibly large load of firewood that the grandmother was carrying. The next think that I noticed was their warm and welcoming smiles. They let me shoot a quick family portrait and then they were off to find the comforting shade for a well-deserved rest.

Our farewell dinner was very enjoyable. I was very happy that Tenzin overlooked his shyness to join us at dinner. We learned a bit more about our friends, Tenzin and Passang. And, I am sad that we must go our separate ways tomorrow. In a smaller world, I think I would very much enjoy many more conversations over tea or ara. Perhaps in 2007, I’ll be fortunate enough do so around a campfire below high peaks.