December 18, 2005 - Hitting a Target That You Can Hardly See
It was a little strange seeing familiar sites on the way back. I remembered the little farm where we had asked to stop because it was the first sighting of a tiered farm. Now, we have seen so many. The view at the stop near Dochula Pass, however, was just as spectacular as the first time.
Thimphu seemed like a huge city this time. I remember when we arrived just over a week ago, the streets looked so narrow and buildings were so short. It is so true that everything is relative and Thimphu was a metropolis compared to the communities of the past few days. I suppose this is a healthier transition back to the hustle and bustle that I’ll find back at home. But, somehow, I slept so much better when I had no television. Before leaving for this trip, I had been using the television to break the silence at night. Somehow, the silence made me lonely at home. In Bumthang, I didn’t need it. Perhaps it was the barking dogs that kept me company. I’m not quite sure. But, it will be interesting to see what the nights will hold for me when I’m back in my own bed.
Today, we visited our last Dzong for this trip. The Wangdue Dzong was wonderful, holding beautiful carvings and extensive paintings. It was Sunday which meant that the young monks were out and about. At one point as we first approached the Dzong, Tenzin called out to some of the young monks. He then produced several photos from his Go. The monks excitedly gathered around, examining the photos. A tourist had visited Wangdue one and a half years ago and had sent the photos back with the request that they be delivered, if possible, to the original subjects. It took quite a bit of time before the path of these monks crossed with Tenzin and Passang, but the task was completed…a promise kept. There was so much excitement and happiness brought by these photographs.
Sonam joined us for lunch to welcome us back from our journey. It was such a pleasure. Our interactions have been limited to no more than three hours but that has been enough to develop a great deal of respect for her. I would welcome the opportunity to chat for many more hours. Perhaps there will be the opportunity in 2007, the year I hope to return to undertake the Jumolhari trek. If all goes well, Passang will be guiding, giving me a chance to soak up a bit more of his knowledge. Besides, I hear he’s pretty good at fending off vicious yak-attacks at high altitude.
I thought we were going to finish our visit to Bhutan without experiencing their national sport. But, as we were driving out of Thimphu towards Paro, I spotted some archers in a nearby field. Tenzin and Passang obliged when I begged for a chance to watch. Archery is such an important part of Bhutanese culture. It was a trademark of their military and continues to be a source of national pride. Archery is enjoyed as serious competition as well as friendly gatherings. Passang had told us stories of the complicated procedures of issuing archery challenges that has become tradition. He spoke of how competitors from opposing teams would stand close to targets to distract their opponents and at times would wear thick Go’s so they could block flying arrows with their bodies as they approached their mark. These stories seemed so far-fetched until I witnessed many of them. I watched as archers would send arrows across the 150 meter-long field towards a small plank that was the target. Their accuracy was unbelievable. But what was even more amazing was what occurred near the targets. Opponents would stand inches from their opponents’ target in order to taunt and distract. They would hold their ground as real arrows soared towards them, moving only if an arrow was going to strike them (and only moving inches away). I make no judgments of their insane behavior. Besides, when I left, there was still the same number of competitors standing as when I first arrived. They must be doing something right.
We are staying at the Hotel Olathang tonight, one of Paro’s more upscale hotels. The view is supposed to be quite impressive and, from the past week’s observations, I have no reason to doubt it. I look forward to the morning.
Thimphu seemed like a huge city this time. I remember when we arrived just over a week ago, the streets looked so narrow and buildings were so short. It is so true that everything is relative and Thimphu was a metropolis compared to the communities of the past few days. I suppose this is a healthier transition back to the hustle and bustle that I’ll find back at home. But, somehow, I slept so much better when I had no television. Before leaving for this trip, I had been using the television to break the silence at night. Somehow, the silence made me lonely at home. In Bumthang, I didn’t need it. Perhaps it was the barking dogs that kept me company. I’m not quite sure. But, it will be interesting to see what the nights will hold for me when I’m back in my own bed.
Today, we visited our last Dzong for this trip. The Wangdue Dzong was wonderful, holding beautiful carvings and extensive paintings. It was Sunday which meant that the young monks were out and about. At one point as we first approached the Dzong, Tenzin called out to some of the young monks. He then produced several photos from his Go. The monks excitedly gathered around, examining the photos. A tourist had visited Wangdue one and a half years ago and had sent the photos back with the request that they be delivered, if possible, to the original subjects. It took quite a bit of time before the path of these monks crossed with Tenzin and Passang, but the task was completed…a promise kept. There was so much excitement and happiness brought by these photographs.
Sonam joined us for lunch to welcome us back from our journey. It was such a pleasure. Our interactions have been limited to no more than three hours but that has been enough to develop a great deal of respect for her. I would welcome the opportunity to chat for many more hours. Perhaps there will be the opportunity in 2007, the year I hope to return to undertake the Jumolhari trek. If all goes well, Passang will be guiding, giving me a chance to soak up a bit more of his knowledge. Besides, I hear he’s pretty good at fending off vicious yak-attacks at high altitude.
I thought we were going to finish our visit to Bhutan without experiencing their national sport. But, as we were driving out of Thimphu towards Paro, I spotted some archers in a nearby field. Tenzin and Passang obliged when I begged for a chance to watch. Archery is such an important part of Bhutanese culture. It was a trademark of their military and continues to be a source of national pride. Archery is enjoyed as serious competition as well as friendly gatherings. Passang had told us stories of the complicated procedures of issuing archery challenges that has become tradition. He spoke of how competitors from opposing teams would stand close to targets to distract their opponents and at times would wear thick Go’s so they could block flying arrows with their bodies as they approached their mark. These stories seemed so far-fetched until I witnessed many of them. I watched as archers would send arrows across the 150 meter-long field towards a small plank that was the target. Their accuracy was unbelievable. But what was even more amazing was what occurred near the targets. Opponents would stand inches from their opponents’ target in order to taunt and distract. They would hold their ground as real arrows soared towards them, moving only if an arrow was going to strike them (and only moving inches away). I make no judgments of their insane behavior. Besides, when I left, there was still the same number of competitors standing as when I first arrived. They must be doing something right.
We are staying at the Hotel Olathang tonight, one of Paro’s more upscale hotels. The view is supposed to be quite impressive and, from the past week’s observations, I have no reason to doubt it. I look forward to the morning.
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