December 13, 2005 - Leg-Stretching

The toilet flushes completely. Then again, I think I may die of carbon monoxide poisoning tonight. It is very cold here in Jakar Valley and the River Lodge has selected wood-burning stoves to heat the rooms. I won’t question their wisdom but I know my smoke detector at home would be screaming right now. It is probably because I don’t quite know how to use the stove but I used no more kerosene than the hotel staff member who helped me to start the fire initially. The flames have gone out once again and perhaps I will freeze instead of asphyxiate.

Tenzin did an incredible job today. It was quite the haul to get here. The winding mountain road was icy at times and we saw a truck teetering on the edge of the cliff, its descent into oblivion halted only by a large rock upon which one front tire had wedged itself. No doubt the driving took every bit of attention Tenzin had. He must be exhausted and we are appreciative.

One of our few stops was at the Black-necked crane preserve. We could not approach any of these beautiful creatures but could only view them through telescopes. To kill one of these birds can mean a life sentence in prison. These endangered birds are regarded as holy. They are migratory…their arrival signifies the time to stop harvesting and their departure marks the time to begin planting the new crop.

It was a long day in the van with just a few occasions to “stretch the legs”. I finally figured out that that meant empty the bladder, not engage in yoga. Tomorrow will be for local exploration, provided that the stove doesn’t do me in.