Exhausting…that is probably the best description of how I feel right now. Tomorrow, the dives will start quite early. Good judgment is important to possess. Falling asleep with this computer on my lap would be an example of bad judgment…being in the top bunk and all.

It was a pleasure to watch these creatures roam. This is such a large place and we are quite small. Even the little creatures are grand in their uniqueness. Being a small feather blowing in the wind can be somewhat scary as well. I’m happy that this sport has adopted the buddy system and I’m very fortunate to have Paul as my buddy on this trip. On more than one occasion, he has been my link back to safety and I thank him for that.

Tomorrow, we will slow down a bit and only do four dives. There is a really good chance that we will visit the island itself. That would be very nice, but I still hope for the big fish.

The third dive was at night. It has been a while since I have been on a night dive…perhaps 12 or 13 years ago. The goal was to observe the hunting patterns of a very large school of Whitetip sharks. They slithered through the coral like a huge vat of snakes, reaching into the nooks and crannies of the reef. This time, I had not only my force field-producing camera, but also “laser-gun” spotting lights on my camera. There were no mishaps tonight and I had a remarkable experience.

It is hard to believe that this was only the first of five diving days. Tomorrow, the first dive will be at 7 am. The excitement may not allow me to sleep.

We unfortunately did wander a block or two too far north. The garbage began to pile up on the streets, and the empty lots became more frequent. The reality of children begging for dollars made itself known. And, in this neighborhood, we ran into an “American”. John comes to Costa Rica from Australia, through Savannah, Georgia. He is building a motorcycle rental business here and was eager to find potential customers. If I knew how to ride one, I may have considered taking out one of his motorcycles to explore a bit more. But, for everyone’s safety, it was best that I stay on foot.

With less than a full day to explore, Paul and I opted for a tour of La Paz Waterfall Gardens Natural Park & Wildlife Refuge. The ride up the mountainside was a pleasant one, partially due to our driver, Jorge. Jorge was pleasant and knowledgeable with a genuine openness. We learned much about the society, geography, and economy of this country over the hour or so it took to reach our rendezvous point with the tour bus that would take us the rest of the way to La Paz. Our tour guide, Rebecca, picked up with courtesy, just where Jorge left off.

The waterfalls were quite spectacular, situated within lush forest. There were five of them, each cascading down, pausing along level earth, and then meeting with the next plunge. The trail touched each of the falls…close enough for the mist to reach back to us.

The refuge is also home to the largest butterfly observatory in the World. Though there were many, each was quite elusive. I would call them “camera-shy” if I didn’t know better. The only ones more difficult to capture on film were the hummingbirds that frequent the feeders in the park. They dart about, not exactly purposefully avoiding the camera, but accomplishing this none the less.

It was raining a bit in the city tonight but the tortilla soup warmed me quite well. Paul and I took a little more care in remembering the correct turns to get back to the hotel and we managed to overshoot by only one block this time. But, in that short block, we encountered too many women hard at work. Then again, our Rebecca did allude to the reality that some of these women are no women at all.

Tomorrow, we may explore more of the fauna of Costa Rica but this time it will be at the zoo before we head to the harbor.

At the session, I witness some more amazing things. Alan and Evelyn have been in love for a while and I can see what each of them has done for the other. Life is often full of sacrifices and I have witnessed much selflessness. Alan has been dedicating a great deal of energy to learning Chinese. I understand the scale of this undertaking since I don’t understand much of Chinese (even having been raised with it…I’ve been scolded plenty of times in this language). Jen, one of the volunteers and high school students has taken on the role of teacher, guiding Alan a bit along his linguistic journey. Perhaps I can employ Jen (or Alan in a few months) to help me be less of an embarrassment to my relatives when I stop by Taiwan for a visit later on this year!

I also found myself in the City (for us, that’s New York City) today. I so rarely venture into the jungle. I don’t do so well with the crowds and congestion. There is a certain urgency everywhere (and the resultant loss of patience) and it is so easy to get sucked into the flow. I had a mission, though, and that was to exchange a lens port I had ordered for my underwater camera rig. The port was scratched and needed to be replaced ASAP (hopefully so I can capture clear photos of many sharks). B&H is an institution for photographers. They stock just about everything and manage to supply much of the World. For the convenience of their customers, they provide an hour of free parking (free is a word unheard of in the City except for when referring to a whooping and a kick in the ass) if you make a $100 purchase. So, after making my exchange, I set in to pick up a few things to “earn” my free parking. After a few minutes, I kissed much more than that $100 good-bye (but I got free parking!). Photography has been such a major investment not just in time and energy but in resources. They say that a good photographer can create wonderful works with any camera (I just don’t see too many pros doing a fashion shoot in Milan with a camera phone). It definitely helps to have good “brushes”. I’ve been very fortunate to have gear that far exceeds my abilities (it helps to not have any mouths other than my own to feed) and I hope to one day grow into it. Right now, I utilize my analytical/professional life to fuel the creative side. Perhaps one day, the two will meld for me. For now, I will keep good friendships with Mr. MasterCard and Ms. Visa. The day I get buddy-buddy with the Discover or the Diner’s Club family is when I know I’ve gone too far.

I returned home last night. I managed to not make any wrong turns and did not fall prey to that statistic that most accidents happen within 20 minutes of one’s home. Everything was very much as I left it. The mess in the living room was still there and the saw dust from the construction of the platform for my truck still lingered all over the floor of the garage. And, what was wonderful was that good friends were just where they had been when I left for the roadtrip.
Evelyne and Alan were home, working on the details of their upcoming wedding. But, they were kind enough to welcome me home. We met at the local TGIF’s for a snack (okay, full meal for me) and shared some laughs for a few hours. And then, it was time to go home.

The truck has been my home, capsule, cell, shield for the past 3 days. I very much like my “Stay-Focused” shirt but it was time to clean up. I normally don’t take baths but I figured a soaking will help to dislodge some ground-in dirt. I noticed the patterns on my feet. I first thought it was dirt but discovered that soap did no good. I had, rather, the famous “Chaco-Tan” (some people develop a similar condition called a “Teva-Tan” but I am rather partial to my Chacos). My normal, day-to-day life involves wearing uncomfortable “dress” shoes which are quite far from functional. Considering that I spend most of my days on the ground or on mats with kids, Chaco’s would be better in this arena as well. But, anyway…I looked at these marks on my feet and they began to bring me such joy. They were the result of running free, day after day, in a setting that I love so much. They were the results of hard work...carrying heavy packs up and down strenuous trails. They were, in a definite way, a “badge of honor” that I will wear with pride until life takes another turn and causes them to fade.

I still haven’t managed to sleep in my own bed yet. The couch is very comfortable but shouldn’t be a permanent thing. Perhaps it’s that I still feel transient. I had been for such a long period of time in recent history. When I finally sleep in a bed, then that would be home. I hoped that I would be able to do that when I returned home from this trip. But, perhaps, for the sake of the adventure, it’s not time to have a home yet.

Tomorrow, I will visit Peak Potential having been absent for so long. Alan and Paul as well as the other volunteers have done an incredible job keeping everything on track and I thank them for it.

Thursday, it will be time to catch a plane to Costa Rica and then a boat to Cocos Island, in search of hammerheads. Perhaps that will help me to find a place closer to a bed and away from a couch.

MANY MORE PHOTOS TO BE UPLOADED, SORRY

About seven years ago, I drove through Death Valley on a road trip. Time was short so we managed only to stop once. Today was a different story. Though this has been a climbing-heavy part of the trip, it was wonderful to shift gears a little.

Edison camped out at Emigrant Pass last night and depended on our cell phone and iPod to wake us up at 5 am. It’s strange that everything today is an alarm clock. I guess we are such a rush-rush society that we can’t afford to oversleep. At least, today, we woke up for adventure and not “work”.

The Stovepipe Wells Dunes were a challenge to negotiate. Walking in such fine sand was like what I imagine walking in molasses to be like. Each step was a chore and two steps up a dune were always followed by a step slide back. Edison and I found separate vantage points and stalked the light. The dunes had a mysterious air to them, especially before dawn. But, as light hit each mound of sand, the landscape erupted into a sea of color. Edison and I moved from place to place, trying to capture the beauty and character of the area in two-dimensional form. The biggest challenge of shooting in the dunes is that by getting yourself to the proper vantage point, chances are you’ve messed up the scene by evidence of your own existence (such as footprints).






After seeing the natural beauty of the dunes, we traveled to a ghost town called Rhyolite which hit its prime about a decade ago. Not much remains now but some individuals have managed to preserve the ruins of some of the buildings. It is wild to think about how this was the center of life for many individuals with only shells of buildings and a cemetery as reminders of those days.

The next stop was Scotty’s Castle. Edison creates some wonderful photographs by capturing the subtle character of places. Instead of taking wide photos of these places, he shoots tightly into the corners. These was much history as well as lore that surrounds this landmark. It was the only private residence within the boundaries of this National Park. There is too much to describe here but I would say it’s worth a stop. Edison has inspired me to see the “man-made” places around us a little differently and I tried to do this today through my camera.

The Racetrack is a remote area of the park that is accessed via a 27 mile gravel and dirt road. The sign read “4x4 high-clearance vehicle recommended”. My GMC XUV has a knob that reads 4 wheel drive but I think it pretty much fakes it.

We gave it a go anyway and I was amazed how Edison could fall asleep as the car shook and rattled almost out of control. Near the end of the drive in (yes, the farthest from civilization we were going to be), the back left tire exploded. It could have been a ruptured sidewall from a rock or just damage from being overstressed; But, whatever the cause, it meant being stranded if the spare (or another tire) went as well. We were successful at remedying the problem with the spare but left us with no “cushion”. We decided to cut our Death Valley adventure short and head back to Vegas for repairs, if we could get out in one piece. But, before existing, it was time to chase light at the Racetrack.

The Racetrack is a humongous, dried lake bed that possesses what is supposed to be a collection of “mobile” rocks. The evidence of their movement is supposed to be found in tracks left behind each rock. Some say that the rocks are moved by winds when atmospheric conditions such as rain soften the lakebed into a slick, ice-like surface. Others have less scientific explanations. I’ve seen photos of this phenomenon before but Edison and I were not privileged enough to witness this ourselves. We did find a remarkable place of such natural beauty. But, when we reached the road, I do believe that pavement was just as beautiful and welcomed!

We managed to make it back to Las Vegas where we were greeted by Trang, Doug, and Shadow. Tomorrow starts my adventure to have my vehicle repaired before the 3000 mile drive back home in a few days (but that will all be on pavement!).

However, get him on climbs and he does just fine. Edison hopped onto Looney Binge, a very difficult route that comes out of the 30 foot Eldorado Roof after a very challenging vertical section.

Neon belayed Edison during this excursion. I have to take this moment to thank all of the individuals who have graciously taken up so much of my belaying duties so I can shoot photos. I am very grateful for all the generosity of time and energy.

We headed into town and I finally had a chance to visit Galen Rowell’s gallery. Rowell is one of the most talented and prominent figures in wilderness and adventure photography. I would say that he is my greatest inspiration. I was quite saddened when he and his wife died in a private plane crash a few years ago. His legacy lives on in his gallery and his works continue to affect countless people, including myself.

Dinner was no big surprise. The Mexican food is quite tasty in this neck of the woods. The ice kept my margarita cool as well as the swelling in Trang’s knee down.

Edison did have his traditional snack before dinner…beans (or anything in a can) and bread but tonight his snack took place in a glorious setting.

Some friends just rolled in to the campsite but we’ll catch up in the morning, over Poptarts.

Shadow enjoyed the pleasant temperatures in this shaded area.

It was also great to hike through the every-changing landscape of Red Rock Canyon. There was a fire recently, caused by a lightning strike that resulted in a large area being charred. No doubt that in a few years, it will be back to normal, with the cacti that were stricken down becoming food for the new vegetation.


One of the more entertaining parts of the day was getting back to town. Trang took a ride out with Shadow and Doug but Doug needed to head back to catch up on some work. My car is currently configured for 2 people because of the storage platform and bed in the back. Trang and Shadow shared the front passenger seat but Edison tested the prone back seat position. I’m happy to report that we all made it back in one piece (but just barely since Edison cracked open a package of tuna fish on the way back).

We drove to the Bishop area of the Eastern Sierras this evening. It was a long drive through the desert but it afforded Edison and Me plenty of time for conversation. We just rolled into Horton Campground by Owens River Gorge. Memories from years ago came flooding back. These were all wonderful memories of times shared with unique and cherrished friends. Some things have changed. There is now a fee and I back then, I would have never have guessed that I would cellular internet signal here.

It’s so very nice to be guests at our dear friend’, Doug and Trang’s place in Las Vegas. After a hard day of climbing, we can enjoy the pleasure of the company of friends, lounging around like lucky dogs.

Edison also has a comfortable place to make his important call back home.

And, I constantly learn from my friends. In this case, Bonnie has shown me how to address smelly outhouses.

Sometimes 99% of what goes on happens beneath the surface or behind the scenes.

This was wonderfully evident at Antelope Canyon. I’ve seen photographs which inspired me to visit this place myself.

Upper Antelope Canyon has been open to the public long enough for there to be crowds today. Several tour companies fun trips there, squeezing dozens of people into the canyon hourly. The canyons rest within the borders of the Navajo Nation which runs their own tours. I chose this option.

Lower Antelope Canyon has been open for a much shorter period of time and is operated by another Navajo family. The lower canyon is more rugged, requiring several ladders to negotiate steep drops. Because of these additional challenges, Lower Antelope Canyon was much quieter. I visited the lower canyon first, while waiting for my 11:30 “photographic” tour of the upper canyon. Though I enjoyed Upper Antelope Canyon (it was quite magnificent) there was no tranquility. I took the advice of our guide and I took off my sandals to “draw energy” from the canyon. I believe it helped but I didn’t find the peace of the lower canyon. When I returned in the afternoon, I found myself walking slowly through the narrow pathways, lightly sliding my fingers against the smooth walls. I stayed ‘til closing, way past the time when the light no longer reached the floor of this powerful, yet peaceful place.

I would have passed right by Horseshoe Canyon if I hadn’t caught a tip from one of the Navajo guides. There is a tiny sign for it on the highway. And, it’s not until you walk the ¾ mile trail to the rim that you catch the view…my jaw almost dropped down to the water, hundreds of feet below.